Himroo, a word derived from Persia, holds a regal past. Once, it was intricately woven with threads of pure gold and silver, crafted exclusively for the noble families. The tale begins when a group of skilled weavers migrated from Delhi to Daulatabad in the 14th century, near Aurangabad, prompted by King Mohammad Bin Tughlaq’s decision to relocate the capital. This vibrant city, founded by Malik Ambar, bewitched people during his reign, enticing them to settle there. In the bygone era, the preferred attire was the exquisite Himroo shawl, which embraced the wearer’s body with elegance. This luxurious fabric was within reach of the Mughal rulers and the British elite, as it boasted a composition of pure silk and cotton. However, due to the exorbitant costs associated with the raw materials, only a select few could indulge in its splendour.
Technique of Himroo Making
Traditionally, Himroo weaving was an artistry mastered on the double-sided loom, locally known as the Pagar loom. The process necessitated a minimum of two skilled weavers—one responsible for weaving, while the other assisted in intertwining the warp and weft yarns. Over time, craftsmen discovered various techniques for blending different materials such as silk with cotton, cotton with artificial fibres, and even cotton with kela (banana) silk. These innovations arose from the limitations imposed by the scarcity of pure silk. Inspiration for the intricate designs stemmed from the awe-inspiring Ajanta and Ellora caves, whose patterns still grace the Himroo fabric today.
Over the years…
From its peak popularity, Himroo fabric witnessed a decline in the mid-1900s. In the 1930s, the government of Hyderabad aimed to support the craft, but unfortunately, the Second World War disrupted their efforts and impacted trade. As a result, demand for Himroo decreased in the 1940s, leaving only around 150 artisan families practising the craft. After India gained independence, the number further dwindled to just thirty families. By the late 1950s, Himroo fabric produced in Aurangabad faced tough competition from cheaper imitation fabrics made using power looms. To aid the weavers, the government of Andhra Pradesh established cooperative societies, leading to the migration of weavers from Aurangabad to Hyderabad. The Himroo and Nawabpura Cooperative Society Limited in Aurangabad (established in 1953) and The Himroo Weavers’ Cooperative Society (established in 1955) were formed under the Hyderabad Cooperatives Societies Act of 1952
Designs of Himroo
As the world progressed, power looms emerged, heralding a new era of mass production. Nowadays, the majority of Himroo shawls and sarees are crafted through these mechanised means. However, a handful of artisans remain dedicated to preserving their ancestral looms, upholding the tradition amidst the march of modernity. Himroo, an exquisite blend of cotton and silk, finds its place in the realms of stoles, shawls, and furnishing materials. Among the myriad designs adorning these textiles, one can find geometric shapes like ovals, diamonds, circles, octagons, and hexagons. Furthermore, motifs inspired by nature grace the fabric, including fruits like almonds, pineapples, pomegranates, and flowers like jasmine, roses, lotuses. Birds, animals, and the floral inlay designs reminiscent of the Taj Mahal and Bibi ka Maqbara also add their charm to the Himroo tapestry.
Status Now
Nowadays, the versatile Himroo fabric is finding its way into shawls, bedsheets, curtains, tapestries, pillow covers, skirts, purses, and neckties. Aurangabad serves as the primary hub for weaving this fabric, with the government establishing weaving and training centres. Although the demand for Himroo has grown, particularly among tourists, the number of active weavers in the region has been declining. Sadly, the COVID-19 pandemic has further accelerated this trend due to the impact on international tourism.
Time to Revive
Many initiatives, designers, etc have tried to revive the great regal artform. One such initiative is LoomKatha, a dedicated organisation committed to preserving heritage weaving techniques, has joined forces with surviving custodians to revive the illustrious Himroo weave. They have collaborated with renowned artists like Abdul Hamid, Imran Qureshi, and Aamer Qureshi to create contemporary and fashionable apparel that showcases the rich legacy of Himroo. While Aurangabad district boasted over 5,000 active weavers in the 1950s, the numbers had dwindled to only two by 2018. However, just as the revival efforts gained momentum, the unfortunate arrival of the COVID-19 pandemic dealt a severe blow to the Himroo weavers. The subsequent lockdown measures and the absence of international tourists caused a significant decline in demand for their traditional weave, which commands a higher price due to the labour-intensive and time-consuming nature of its production. Despite these challenges, LoomKatha remains steadfast in their mission to support and uplift the Himroo weavers, striving to safeguard this cultural heritage for generations to come.
Another initiative has been that of an alliance between Director of Handlooms and Textiles, Shailaja Ramaiyer, and the esteemed proprietor of Mamatha Tulluri’s The Designer Studio, Mamatha Tulluri, united their efforts. Their shared goal was to revive the fading legacy of the royal Himroo fabric and prevent it from slipping into the abyss of extinction. Another textile revivalist, Suraiya Hasan Bose has also done her bit in reviving the heritage of Himroo weaving in Aurangabad, which has been the subject of a published book by Radhika Singh called Suraiya Hasan Bose: Weaving a Legacy.
In the embrace of simplicity and regality lies the allure of Himroo. Weaving a tale of elegance and tradition, celebrating the artistry and skill passed down through generations. As time evolves, so does the craft, adapting to the demands of a changing world. Yet, the spirit of Himroo, nurtured by the hands of dedicated artisans continues to shine through and show us exemplary works of art.
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