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BIRKENSTOCK at 250: The Legacy of Iconic Footwear

The well-known “ugly” sandals, Birkenstocks, are seeing a phenomenal comeback. The German company is about to reach a major milestone in its nearly 250-year history. Birkenstock is getting ready to list on the New York Stock Exchange, which would be a new chapter in the company’s illustrious history, according to a document made public by the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC).

The rising popularity of the Birkenstock Boston clog on TikTok, particularly in the coveted taupe suede, has made it hard to find| Courtesy:Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images/nytimes.com

How did it all begin?

But how are these sandals able to attract people all around the world? The narrative starts in 1774 when Johann Adam Birkenstock opened a shoe store in the German state of Hesse’s town of Langen-Bergheim. His grandson, Frankfurt-based shoemaker Konrad Birkenstock, had a revolutionary notion over a century later. He began making contoured insoles in 1896, which made it possible to include a flexible arch in mass-produced shoes. This breakthrough came along just in time. German spa culture was booming by the late 1800s, drawing affluent Europeans and Americans seeking medical care. Spa patrons soon liked Konrad’s new shoes, which were made to support good foot health.

START OF THE INDUSTRIAL ERA AT BIRKENSTOCK. Courtesy:birkenstock-group.com

Birkenstocks enter the US Market

Margot Fraser, a Californian woman of German descent, discovered the unparalleled comfort of Birkenstock sandals during a vacation in Germany. Suffering from foot pain, she found relief in these unique shoes and suggested bringing them to the U.S. In 1966, she successfully introduced Birkenstocks to the American market, initially selling them in health food stores. The sandals quickly gained popularity among environmentalists, counterculture youth, and hippies, becoming a symbol for those opposed to nuclear weapons, processed foods, and the sexualization of women. By the 1970s, Birkenstock launched its two most iconic models, the Arizona sandal and the Boston clog, which remain best-sellers today. The brand experienced a resurgence in the 1990s as a subversive fashion statement during the grunge movement, solidifying its status as the footwear of the opposition.

Birkenstocks in Popular Fashion

Kate Moss wore Birkenstocks for a photo shoot for The Face magazine in 1990. The publication is regarded as the British bible of alternative fashion. The Arizona model was included in Marc Jacobs’ renowned “grunge” collection for Perry Ellis two years later, in 1992. This decision finally resulted in the model’s termination from the company. The rise of Birkenstocks into mainstream fashion began during these times.

Then-Céline design director Phoebe Philo debuted a range of footwear that looked like Birkenstocks and had colorful mink lining at her Paris fashion show in 2012. This led to a worldwide fashion frenzy for the design and elevated the less expensive, plain Arizona sandals to prominence. According to The Cut, Birkenstock was making 10 million sandals a year during the height of its mania. Birkenstocks benefited from Philo’s high-fashion touch, which made the Arizona model an essential piece of minimalist style. Germany-based Birkenstock, which produces its goods there, found it difficult to meet the increased demand. Sales have more than doubled in the last ten years, with Arizona sandals leading the way, according to CBS News.

Many celebrities then were seen wearing the birkenstocks from Kate Moss at the beginning to Gweneth Paltrow, Kendal Jenner and now Indian celebrities. Courtesy:guidicalzature.com

Increased sales of Birkenstocks 

In 2015, Birkenstock introduced the EVA sandals, a modern take on its classic cork-and-leather design. These new sandals, crafted from lightweight, waterproof ethylene-vinyl acetate, offered a more affordable option at around $40, less than half the price of the original. By 2018, EVAs had become a significant part of the brand’s lineup, accounting for 15% of the 25 million pairs produced annually. That year, Birkenstock’s sales soared to $800 million, highlighting the successful integration of this innovative, budget-friendly addition to its product range.

Boom in Birkenstocks During Pandemic

The decision to work from home during the pandemic spurred a boom in interest in Birkenstock, which gave the company an unexpected boost. The brand quickly rose to prominence as the preferred footwear, resulting in previously unheard-of levels of internet demand. The enormous surge in sales coupled with the necessity of controlling worldwide demand within epidemic circumstances presented notable obstacles. The backlog of almost a million pairs in German Birkenstock manufacturers pushed workers to their breaking point. Complicating matters further, was a nearly two-month production standstill brought on the lockdowns. Notwithstanding these challenges, Birkenstock achieved sales of $750 million and earnings of approximately $150 million in 2019.

Following their appearance on TikTok by celebrities like Kendall Jenner, the Boston clog became extremely popular in 2022 and eventually sold out online. Some resellers charged twice the regular price because of their extreme demand. After being featured in last year’s blockbuster “Barbie” movie and seen on numerous A-list celebrities, Birkenstock’s Arizona sandal experienced a surge in searches and sales.

Birkenstocks and the Indian Connect

In India, Birkenstock, commonly known as Birks, has become a popular choice for those willing to invest in their unique cork footbeds. Since the brand’s launch in December 2019, its sales have doubled annually. The brand has also expanded in 2024, as the shoe industry celebrates 250 years of history, BIRKENSTOCK shows its dedication to the area by opening its first flagship shop in Mumbai, the nation’s financial center.”The opening of our first BIRKENSTOCK flagship store, in India is a landmark moment for us. The love for BIRKENSTOCK in India has been truly inspiring. We’re witnessing a passionate and ever-expanding consumer base who value the comfort and quality of our footwear and the brand’s commitment to heritage. This motivates us to continuously innovate and deliver exceptional experiences that resonate with our community,” added Vinay Bansal, Managing Director of BIRKENSTOCK India in an interview with Business Standard. There is also a store in Kolkata in May. 2024.

Anushla Sharma in Birkenstocks. Courtesy:idiva.com

Sustainable Brand

According to Birkenstock, the core of their products is the preservation of natural resources. The business uses sustainable materials like leather, jute, cork, and natural latex.

Additionally, it sells vegan sandals made entirely of synthetic and plant-based materials. A crucial component of Birkenstock insoles, cork is also essential to the brand’s cosmetics. One of the key ingredients in Birkenstock’s skin care products is cork oak extract, which is thought to have anti-aging qualities.

References

  1. https://www.businessinsider.in/retail/news/the-rise-of-birkenstock-how-the-shoe-went-from-an-ugly-hippie-sandal-to-coveted-fashion-statement/slidelist/102364549.cms#slideid=102364587
  2. https://www.vox.com/2017/9/1/16145270/birkenstocks-breaking-in-pain
  3. https://english.elpais.com/lifestyle/2023-10-06/birkenstock-goes-public-this-is-how-the-woke-sandal-became-a-fashion-symbol.html
  4. https://www.business-standard.com/content/press-releases-ani/birkenstock-india-opens-its-first-flagship-store-in-mumbai-124042700215_1.html
  5. https://www.forbesindia.com/article/lifes/birkenstocks-journey-from-german-village-to-barbie-blockbuster/88939/1