Ponduru Khadi of Andhra Pradesh
Nestled just 30 km away from Srikakulam district in Andhra Pradesh, the charming village of Ponduru holds a significant piece of our cherished history. It is here that Ponduru Khadi, a distinguished fabric beloved even by Mahatma Gandhi, finds its origins. The village exudes a warm and welcoming atmosphere, with vibrant neon hues adorning its walls. Notably, Ponduru takes pride in its unique Geographical Handloom Identification Tag, signifying its special place on the map.
A Rich History and Weavers
With a rich history spanning 75 years, Ponduru Khadi continues to be skillfully crafted by weaving families belonging to the Padmasali and Devanga communities. These skilled artisans utilize a single spindle to weave the fabric. The cotton employed in Ponduru Khadi is an extraordinary variety of indigenous cotton, often sourced from Nimmalavalasa village in the Srikakulam district.It remains the primary tool for spinning cotton in Ponduru.
A Dying Tradition
In the past, every household in Ponduru took pride in possessing a loom. The locals skillfully crafted their own garments, producing fabric that garnered international recognition, finding its way to countries such as the USA, Denmark, Japan, and Sweden. Remarkably, Ponduru remains one of the few places where the unique single-spindle charkha with 24 spokes can still be found.Regrettably, this legacy struggles to compete with the allure of modern, mass-produced synthetic textiles. Amidst the glitz and glamour of contemporary fashion, we’ve seemed to lose touch with the wonderful sensation of wearing exquisite, breathable, and authentically earthy fabric that resonates with our very essence.
The enduring tradition of exquisite khadi weaving in Ponduru faces a looming threat of extinction. The time-honored practice of traditional spinning is at risk of fading away into obscurity. The distressing circumstances that have driven farmers to extreme measures are gradually encroaching upon the lives of these skilled artisans too. Weavers are grappling with severe challenges and find themselves devoid of avenues for seeking remedies.
Ponduru Makers Crafting the Textile
According to the Andhra Fine Khadi Karmikabhivruddhi Sangh (AFKKS), around 950 charkha spinners can be found in the district’s villages, with approximately 250 of them situated in Ponduru itself.The process of creating Ponduru Khadi involves the participation of entire families. Women of various ages are predominantly responsible for cleaning and spinning the cotton yarn. Women despite having technology in their households, they continue to grace their floors with intricate rice paste designs. They adorn both the outer and inner thresholds of their homes, upholding the timeless tradition that sanctifies their living spaces. Tradition remains an integral part of their lives, steadfast and unwavering. Men handle tasks like stretching the yarn and weaving it on looms. This collective effort results in the exquisite Ponduru Khadi fabric enjoyed by many.
Ponduru Making
Cotton bolls go through a series of stages before transforming into yarn. These yarn threads are meticulously prepared and treated before being placed on either a large circular hand-operated warping drum or a compact square one. From here, they are carefully wound onto spindles, which supply the weft threads used on a loom.
Subsequently, there is a shared process that includes washing, drying, ironing, folding, transportation, and ultimately, the sale of their crafted fabric. This fabric takes the form of yardage, saris, stoles, and men’s veshtis or lungis. Women engage in spinning on traditional charkhas by their open front doors, weavers diligently tie, stretch, count, and starch long warp threads on the narrow streets outside their modest homes at the break of dawn.
At the entrances of numerous weavers’ households in Ponduru, one can observe women of varying ages, both young and old, engaged in the spinning process.Both entire catfish bones and fragments of them are utilised to craft combs that play a role in the cotton spinning process.The local community’s resourceful approach favours the use of cleverly sourced materials for creating tools to accomplish uncomplicated tasks, valuing them over industrial implements.
Meanwhile, couples come together in small rooms to weave on looms.This routine characterises the daily life of khadi weaving communities in Ponduru, and it only pauses during significant festivals or other communal gatherings.
Changing Tides for Ponduru Makers
Over the years, despite the tradition facing extinction, government initiatives and technology have brought about a significant change for the craft and its weavers. While the number of practitioners have dropped massively, the product has a 5 crore turnover, according to AFKKS secretary D. Venkata Ramana, in an interview with Deccan Chronicle.
Reflecting upon the Ponduru’s fabric, we are prompted to recall Gandhi’s profound vision for khadi, where its significance transcended political realms to empower India’s rural underprivileged. At present, Ponduru finds itself at a pivotal juncture, a convergence of past and future. The pressing inquiry persists: Shall Ponduru’s treasured hand-spun khadi be confined to the quiet confines of museums, or can its legacy be masterfully crafted by its makers and continue to cloth many in the country and abroad?
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