Golconde, the iconic dormitory constructed by architects George Nakashima and Antonin Raymond, stands as a brilliant example of India’s architectural evolution, representing the country’s first foray into the realm of modernist design. Completed in 1945, this remarkable structure is nestled within the serene confines of the Sri Aurobindo Ashram in Pondicherry, India. With its origins dating back to a commission received by Raymond’s architectural office in Tokyo in 1935, Golconde emerged as a response to both the ashram’s need for a new residential dormitory and the French government’s concern over the ashram’s expanding influence. Consequently, a property adjacent to the local Tamil neighborhood was chosen as the ideal site for this pioneering edifice.
Early Beginnings:
One of the many challenges encountered during Golconde’s making was the absence of skilled contractors in Pondicherry, which compelled the architects to adopt an innovative approach. Undeterred, they rallied the dedicated members of the ashram, who became the sole workforce responsible for bringing the vision to life. The commitment to creating a harmonious and tranquil environment led them to eschew the involvement of commercial construction companies, preserving the ashram’s serene ambiance. Today, it stands proudly as a primary residence for an ashram member, embodying the architectural ingenuity and foresight that guided its creation.
The global political unrest of the era presented another hurdle to Golconde’s construction. Disruptions in the import of materials and hardware originally drawn in the building plans were not available which led to the architects and ashram members to come up with alternate solutions. The architects erected a foundry on the building site to cast all the metal hardware components required. An extraordinary display of resourcefulness emerged as brass utensils, generously donated by the devotees of the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, were melted down and reborn as bolts, hinges, and door handles, infusing the building with a unique symbolism and connection to its spiritual community.
Construction Underway:
Courtesy: Nakashima Foundation
As the construction progressed, the esteemed George Nakashima returned to Pondicherry in 1936, assuming the role of both an ashram devotee, adopting the Indian name Sunder Nanda, one who delights in beauty and a dedicated project architect. Collaborating closely with Raymond and guided by the ashram’s spiritual leader Sri Aurobindo, Nakashima left an indelible mark on Golconda, particularly through his mastery of concrete work.
A Modernist Tale:
Golconde’s architectural design seamlessly merges the principles of early modernism with a profound sensitivity to its tropical context. Raymond’s vision ingeniously addressed the challenging climate of Pondicherry, utilising the building’s orientation and landscaping to create a natural cooling system.
The major facades of the structure face north and south, utilizing the prevailing breezes to enhance ventilation. Water channels and reflecting pools meander through the northern and southern gardens, inducing a refreshing atmosphere. The northern garden, adorned with a spare ground cover, juxtaposes the lushly planted shade garden to the south, fostering a temperature differential that encourages natural convection currents, effectively tempering the interior spaces.
Transcendental Elements:
Golconde embraces a sensory experience that transcends conventional expectations. From the moment one steps inside, a world of enchantment unfolds. The smooth, cool touch of the stone floors welcomes visitors, providing a refreshing escape from the tropical heat. Majestic banyan trees, with their ancient and twisted branches, grace the surroundings, casting dappled shadows and bestowing a sense of timeless wisdom. Amidst this natural oasis, serene lily ponds mirror the dance of sunlight, evoking a serene and ethereal atmosphere. Black earthen pottery takes centre stage, serving as vessels for water. These humble artefacts, born from traditional craftsmanship. It is the abundance of meticulously placed louvres that elevates the space to new heights of architectural brilliance. Stretching the entire length of the building, these ingenious elements offer a breathtaking experience. When opened, they effortlessly dissolve the boundary between interior and exterior, inviting the gentle breeze, refreshing rain, and the very essence of the outside world into the space.
Golconde features two long wings, three floors, and a clever floor plan. One side houses rows of rooms, while the other boasts a continuous gallery. Sliding teak doors seamlessly connect these spaces. A central stairwell acts as the pivotal point, enabling easy movement between levels. This architectural masterpiece harmoniously combines functionality and aesthetics in a balanced and cohesive design.
Crafted with Care:
The tables, chairs, beds and other wooden furniture found in the Golconde were designed by George Nakashima in the 1930s and 40s. Nakashima’s furniture designs embraced a timeless aesthetic, marrying simplicity with refined craftsmanship. His creations exuded a sense of understated elegance, effortlessly blending into any space while commanding attention with their inherent beauty. With meticulous attention to detail and a deep respect for the natural materials he worked with, Nakashima’s furniture pieces became enduring icons of his artistic vision.
Golconde, with its groundbreaking modernist design, enduring spirit of innovation, and profound connection to the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, has earned its place as an architectural gem within India’s rich architectural heritage. It stands as a symbol of the country’s willingness to embrace new architectural paradigms while retaining a deep appreciation for its cultural and spiritual roots.
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