The National Museum and the Devi Art Foundation collaborated to bring the Exhibition Pehchaan: Enduring Themes in Indian Textiles, held from 27 January to 23 February 2025, to life. It was a remarkable showcase of enduring Themes in Indian Fabric Design. Pehchaan is not merely an exhibition, it is a celebration of the ever-evolving identity of the nation expressed through textiles. The exhibition celebrated centuries of Indian Textile Heritage and Craftsmanship, and showcases textiles that have been an integral aspect of Indian Art and Culture at National Museum.
Pehchaan Indian Textiles Exhibition
Covering more than five hundred years, the collection contains a stunning showcase of fabrics dating to the 14th and 15th centuries. Each of these has been carefully classified into different themes, from floral and vegetal motifs to representations of birds and animals, in addition to astronomical and abstract patterns. Bringing together traditional weaving techniques, intricate patterns, and cultural narratives, the exhibition offers an immersive journey into the world of Indian textiles. The exhibition celebrates Devi Arts Foundations’ contribution to Indian arts and textiles in the last 20 years since its inception in 2005.
Naturalistic Elements within the Textiles
Encoding exquisite weaving techniques, Kani weave remains an illustrious feat of Kashmiri artisans. This abstract form of weaving plays with the movement and manipulation of coloured threads to create complex, stunningly intricate patterns. The Kani weave is a kambha, not just a visual marvel, which is why the first thing people look for in Kani shawls is its Shaivite traditions.
One of the standout exhibits included a striking textile featuring mythological animals and floral motifs on a vibrant red background. This piece exemplifies the artistic finesse and storytelling embedded in traditional Indian textiles. The composition of leopards, antelopes, and winged creatures mirrors historical hunting scenes often found in Mughal and Persian-influenced textiles.
Another mesmerizing exhibit was a detailed fabric displaying an array of birds in naturalistic hues. The intricacy of the feather detailing and the organic arrangement of the birds echo the mastery of Indian hand-painting and block-printing traditions. This piece stood as a tribute to the harmony between nature and textile artistry, a theme frequently seen in Indian weaving heritage. The exhibition included an opulent red and gold embroidered robe, revealing India’s deep tradition of textile embellishment.
The Vision Behind the Exhibition
Beyond the Kani weave, the exhibition delves into a wide array of textile traditions, from the resplendent Banarasi brocades to the delicate Jamdani weaves of Bengal. It unearths narratives embedded in each textile piece—stories of migration, craftsmanship, and the socio-political landscapes that have influenced their evolution. The curatorial vision is not just to display these masterpieces but to contextualize them within the broader framework of Indian history, identity, and artistry.
More than just a visual delight, Pehchaan is an educational endeavour, inviting visitors to engage with India’s textile legacy profoundly. The exhibition successfully bridges the past and present, creating a dialogue between traditional techniques and contemporary interpretations. Through thoughtfully curated displays and insightful annotations, it offers a comprehensive understanding of how vernacular textile histories continue to shape the modern textile landscape.
The National Museum and the Devi Art Foundation teaming up is a testimony to constant faith in preserving and celebrating the textile traditions from our land. By placing these textiles in the museum space, the exhibition raises their status from craft to fine art that is worthy of study, appreciation, and preservation. In essence, Pehchaan is not just an exhibition—it is a tribute to the weavers, the traditions, and the stories that define India’s textile heritage. As the curatorial note highlights, the showcased works “transcend uses beyond their often-assumed roles for the sacred and profane, as well as the functional and decorative,” illustrating how traditional craftsmanship continues to shape contemporary narratives. By bridging history with the present, Pehchaan celebrated the timeless artistry, techniques, and motifs that define India’s textile heritage, reaffirming its relevance in an ever-changing world.
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