The humble gamchha, a fabric woven into the daily lives of millions, at the center of a multimedia exhibition at The National Crafts Museum & Hastkala Academy in Delhi. ‘GAMCHHA: From the Extraordinary in the Ordinary’, presented by Dastkari Haat Samiti, runs from March 1 to 10, 2025. It explores the gamchha’s regional diversity, craftsmanship, and cultural significance across 14 Indian states and Southeast Asia.
A Fabric Spanning the Diversity of India
Overshadowed by India’s collection of numerous celebrated handlooms, the Gamchha—also known as Gamcha, Gamucha, or Gamosa—remains a silent hero of everyday Indian life. Typically measuring 70” in length and 35” in width, this versatile fabric has many uses from a towel, to head covering, a makeshift belt, and even as an offering in religious rituals. From Bihar’s sacred river ceremonies to Assam’s revered white gamosa, this common textile carries deep cultural roots.
The gamchha is also a staple in popular culture. Prime Minister of India, Narendra Modi has been seen wearing it, while filmmaker Anurag Kashyap famously paired it with a Dior suit at the Cannes Film Festival, proving its influence beyond its humble origins.
Curating a Tradition that is Overlooked
The exhibition is curated and designed by Suparna Bhalla of Abaxial Design Pvt Ltd. Her innovative display of latticed bamboo and steel captures the twists and turns of the fabric and its inherent structure. “It emulates both liberation and oppression as symbolized by the gamchha,” says Bhalla.
Architect and origami artist Ankon Mitra is a part of the exhibition with his signature Oritecture technique, transforming the 2D textile of the gamchha into immersive, multidimensional art installations. His suspended pieces reimagine the classic red-and-white gamchha found in the Bengali traditions, as a sacred household object, while another installation pulls the unnoticed presence of gamchha’s and India’s rural landscapes together.
Installations and Demonstrations at Gamchha Exhibition
Beyond still displays, the exhibition moves away from the static by featuring live demonstrations by craftspeople, viewing products inspired by Gamchha such as sarees, fashion apparel, accessories, and lifestyle goods. This interactive element brings to notice the textile’s continued relevance in today’s world, despite the threat posed by mass production and cheap imports in today’s world.
Jaya Jaitly, President of Dastkari Haat Samiti, has long been an advocate for the gamchha. Her involvement with this unique began in 2015 when she commissioned Phulia’s women weavers in West Bengal to create 100 gamchha sarees. Reflecting on the overlooked importance of the fabric, she states, “It is everywhere, yet no one notices it.”
A Call to Preserve India’s Everyday Heritage
The exhibition is a way to give attention to a fabric that symbolises India’s grassroots ingenuity. “Just as Charles and Ray Eames elevated the everyday lota as a design icon,” says Mitra, “we hope to highlight the gamchha as a symbol of Indian design thinking.”
For Jaya Jaitly, the message is clear: the gamchha deserves recognition. “Neither an exotic Kanjeevaram nor a celebrated Banarasi silk, the gamchha is a fifty-rupee fabric that we overlook. It’s time it received the dignity it truly deserves.”With traditional textiles facing increasing threats with rising industrialization, ‘GAMCHHA: From the Extraordinary in the Ordinary’ is an important reminder of India’s rich handloom heritage and its working class background of over 1.3 crore population.
Feature Image Courtesy- Dastkari Haat Samiti
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